How to Install Sedan Door Weatherstripping (1955 and Later)
Applies to: Door weatherstripping for sedans, coupes, and hardtops from the mid-1950s onward—including molded seals with clips/pins and channel-fit styles.
What You'll Need
- Narrow flat-blade screwdriver (1/8" wide) for scraping channels
- Pliers for removing old clips
- 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive (GL-11)
- Clean rags and rubbing alcohol
- Nitrile gloves (GL-10)
- Krazy Glue (for corner mitering if needed)
💡 Save time and hassle: Our Complete Installation Kit (GLK-1) includes adhesive, gloves, and a 7-piece trim tool set—everything you need in one kit.
The Golden Rule
Install the seal completely DRY first. Test-fit. THEN add adhesive.
This prevents messy mistakes and lets you verify proper fit before committing.
Step-by-Step Installation
1. COMPARE
Before removing old weatherstrip:
- Compare old seal to new seal for approximate size
- Study how the old seal was installed
- Separate left from right seals
- Remove from driver's door first—keep passenger side intact for reference
2. PREPARE
- Remove old seal completely from driver's door
- Use pliers to wiggle out old clips
- Scrape channels clean with narrow screwdriver
- Remove all old adhesive and debris
3. CLEAN
- Wipe down all surfaces where seal will attach
- Use rubbing alcohol to remove grease
- Let dry completely
- Do NOT apply glue yet!
4. MATCH Orientation
- Match corner angles on new seal to corners on door
- The curved sealing lip should face toward the car body
- If the lip curves away from body, you have the wrong side (driver/passenger reversed)
5. DRY-FIT (No Glue!)
Installation sequence:
- Push in first clip on lock side (A)
- Push in first clip on hinge side (B)—this aligns the top section
- For grooved areas: angle the lock-in flange into groove, squeeze until fully seated
- Continue around door, clicking clips into holes firmly
- Make sure every clip is tight
6. TEST CLOSE
Close the door to verify fit:
- Door will close harder than before—this is normal
- If door won't latch, recheck seal positioning
- The seal will compress and conform over the next few days
7. NOW ADD ADHESIVE
After confirming proper fit, add adhesive to these critical areas:
| Location | What to Do |
|---|---|
| Between clips | Gently lift rubber, apply small dot of adhesive, press back down |
| Upper hinge area | Often has no clips—adhesive is the only attachment here |
| Grooved sections | Apply thin bead inside groove at top 1-6" only |
8. CURE
- Leave door open for 1 hour for initial set
- Full cure takes 24 hours
- Don't slam doors during curing
9. REPEAT
- Complete passenger side and rear doors (if applicable)
- Use the first door as your reference
For Universal Extrusion with Clips
If using universal-length extrusion (sold by the foot):
- Follow all steps above
- Use Krazy Glue to miter and bond sharp corners if needed
- Always place the final splice joint at the bottom of the door
What to Expect: The Break-In Period
Day 1: Door may shut harder than usual—don't worry, this is normal with new seals.
Day 2-3: Metro SUPERsoft seals feature a Custom Adjusting Compound (CAC) that conforms to your specific door. Closing effort decreases noticeably.
Week 1: Seal should be fully broken in. You'll have a perfect, airtight seal without slamming.
Metro SUPERsoft seals are up to 50% softer than other brands and more durable than OEM—they're designed to seal tightly while still allowing easy door closure.
Quick Reference: Where Things Go
| Reference | Location | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| (A) | Lock side—first clip | Start here |
| (B) | Hinge side—first clip | Install second for alignment |
| (C) | Door groove—top and sides | Flange locks into channel |
| (D) | Corner angle | Match new seal to door corners |
| (E) | Main seal | Will bend to follow door curve |
| (F) | Lock-in flange | Fits into track on grooved areas |
| (G) | Upper hinge area | No clips—glue only |
| (H) | Between clips | Add adhesive dots after test-fit |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Clips won't align | Wrong seal, debris in holes | Verify part number; clean holes |
| Door won't close | Seal too thick or mispositioned | Reposition; allow break-in time |
| Door slams hard after 1 week | Seal may be misaligned | Check alignment; reinstall if needed |
| Seal pulls out of groove | No adhesive in groove | Add thin bead of adhesive |
| Corner doesn't fit | Angles don't match | Verify correct side; check part number |
| Wind noise after install | Gap somewhere in seal | Inspect full perimeter; add adhesive at gaps |
Pro Tips
- Keep the other side for reference until you've completed installation
- "Dry-fit first, glue last" prevents 90% of installation mistakes
- New seals are thicker than crushed old ones—expect firmer door closure initially
- Photos before removal help with reassembly
- Work on one door at a time to maintain a reference point
