How to Install Trunk Gaskets
Applies to: Molded trunk gaskets with distinct profiles—typically featuring a lip section and tail sections that wrap around the trunk opening.
What You'll Need
- 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive (GL-11)
- Sharp pruning shears or scissors
- Spring clamps (Stanley brand or similar)
- Plastic scraper
- Sandpaper (if repainting)
- Clean rags and rubbing alcohol
- Nitrile gloves (GL-10)
💡 Pro Tip: Removing the trunk lid makes installation much easier—especially for cleaning and accessing corners.
Understanding Your Trunk Gasket
Most trunk gaskets have two distinct profiles:
| Section | Description | Location |
|---|---|---|
| Lip Section | Wider profile with a lip that hangs over the edge on three sides | Top and sides of trunk opening |
| Tail Sections | Narrower profile at each end | Bottom/lower portion of trunk opening |
The joint (where tail sections meet) can be centered or offset—both work fine.
Method 1: Centered Joint (Recommended)
This places the splice joint at the center bottom—the least visible location.
Steps:
- Trial-fit the gasket completely without adhesive
- Note where lip section and tail sections are located
- Mark the center of trunk opening (usually directly above lock cylinder)
- Start in lower right corner where lip section begins
- Apply adhesive and work slowly toward back glass
- Clamp corners as needed to hold
- DO NOT pull the gasket tight! Let it lay naturally.
- When lip section is complete, position the tails
- Cut tails, allowing 1/8" extra at the joint
- Apply adhesive to both cut ends and butt together firmly
Method 2: Factory-Style Offset Joint
This replicates how the factory originally installed the gasket—the joint may be ½" to 2" off-center.
Steps:
- Trial-fit the gasket completely
- Start in either lower corner where lip and tail sections meet
- Cement one tail first, then continue with lip section around opening
- Clamp as needed
- Bring remaining tail across the bottom
- Butt into installed tail—allowing 1/8" extra
- DO NOT pull gasket tight!
Both methods work equally well. Centered joint looks cleaner; offset is "factory correct" for some vehicles.
Key Tips for Success
DO:
âś… Trial-fit the entire gasket before applying any adhesive
âś… Allow 1/8" extra material at the splice joint
âś… Use clamps to hold corners while adhesive sets
✅ Work slowly—rushing causes misalignment
âś… Clean trunk lip thoroughly before starting
DON'T:
❌ Pull or stretch the gasket—it should relax into position
❌ Apply adhesive to the entire gasket at once—work in sections
❌ Close trunk until adhesive has set (minimum 1 hour)
Surface Preparation
- Remove old gasket completely
- Scrape off all old adhesive
- Sand any rust spots
- Prime and paint bare metal if needed
- Clean with rubbing alcohol
- Let dry completely before installing new gasket
A plastic trim tool helps remove old gasket material without scratching paint.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Gasket is too long | Normal—allow for splice | Trim at joint location |
| Gap at splice joint | Cut too short or pulled tight | Allow 1/8" extra; don't stretch |
| Corners won't stay down | Not enough adhesive | Apply more adhesive, use clamps |
| Water leaks after install | Gap at splice, trunk alignment | Check splice joint; adjust trunk hinges if needed |
| Gasket profile doesn't match | Wrong part | Compare to old gasket; contact us |